so we're here in southern california, so what do southern california-ers do? surf. so why not? i have no surfing street cred except that i owned a surfboard before we got here and i surfed in hawaii without anyone yelling at me. two stories about that surfboard 1. my mom bought it for me 2 weeks after i found out i was pregnant for the first time = not going to use it for a long time 2. the next time i used it, we drove from ocracoke ,nc and tested what would happen if you didn't tie down a surfboard properly, in which case, it does fly off your roof, really high and crash down behind you (no one was hurt and it had a small small ding on it). anyhow, so we are here and without the military move in three years rule, we might be here for longer. so now after 6 months, we have, let me count, 4 surfboards, for lets say 3 surfers. and im not sure i can even call myself a surfer, i would call myself a paddler.
i paddle surfboards and occasionally i ride them.
so i thought i would share some of my favorite shots thus far of some real surfers and someday, within 10 years, a local friend told me, i would be able to cut on a wave, and just maybe my board will be smaller than 9 feet. i can dream, right?